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Hey there, I'm Peter with Sixthreezero in the garage. What we're doing with this, working in the garage, is just to show you, in the old days, you used to buy a bike in a bike shop. That's still very applicable for a high-end race bike or a mountain bike we're going to be taking on rough terrain. But nowadays the internet has changed everything, and it's great to buy a bike online. Sometimes there still are a lot of components and things that you may not be familiar with. You can take it to a bike shop, but you can also do it with yourself, by yourself... You can also do it by yourself in your garage. And so that's what we're doing here. No fancy equipment, no bike stands, no special tools.
We're just going to have the bike just how it'll arrive at you from online and put together with simple tools. We have a Phillips screwdriver. We have a 9 and 10-millimeter socket. You can also use a 9 or 10-millimeter wrench. Crescent wrench, an adjustable wrench is always nice to have on hand. 13, 14, and 15-millimeter wrenches. Something to open the box with and the packaging, box cutters or some snips, and then also 4, 5, and 6 millimeter Allen wrench. All right. So today what we're working on is the Sixthreezero Ride in the Park. This is the men's edition. What we have here today is the Sixthreezero men's Ride in the Park, and we'll get started.
Just cut the bands here and open up the box. This we'll just pull straight out of the box. So here is the bike, and there's one parts box. I'll go ahead and open the parts box, show you what's inside, and then we'll begin to unpack the bike. Now the Ride in the Park is a seven-speed bicycle, so it will have some hand brakes and gears to adjust. I'll show you how to do that. The quick-release, this goes on the front wheel. Have some tools, pedals, seat post. Also, some touch-up paint and a front reflector, and two zip ties, which we'll get to later. Okay.
So the first thing we're going to do is go ahead and we're going to take off all the zip ties from the bike. This will get started it, okay. So here is this box. This box is the saddle, also called the seat. Now here on the top, I just took a zip tie off and we have the front fender. So we'll set that aside for later right there. Okay. Now once all the zip ties are off, it's very easy to just lift the front wheel and just one zip tie right here. There we go. You just pull the front wheel out. There's some packaging and some plastic on both sides. This piece here, pull it out, discard. The other side as well. Throw that away. You'll have a wheel here, looks like it has a very short axle. We'll show you how that works. Okay.
When the bicycle is packaged, they always turn the fork backward so it can fit in the box more efficiently. The first thing you want to do is turn that fork around, so it's facing forward like it should. I'll take off the packaging so you can see the curve. There we go. There's that nice classic curve you see on bikes since they've been invented. And then we'll go ahead and... Sometimes, on this one, I think what we can do too, just to get this out of the way, is take the packaging off of the handlebars and the stem. This part that holds the handlebars to the bike is called the stem. Just go ahead and slip that into the bike for now. We're not going to tighten it yet. Just throw it in there.
And then we'll put the wheel in. Just go ahead and set the wheel right onto the axle. It has just enough room to fill the axle. The axle's very short, that's by design, and we'll show you why that is. Let's put the kickstand down. Once you get this front wheelset in the fork, even though it's not attached yet, and then put the kickstand down, that bike will hold itself by itself so you can work on it. In a bike shop, sometimes they'll put a bike like this up in a stand, which helps facilitate things, maybe make it a little bit easier, but as you'll see, you can do it just fine in your garage.
The first thing we're going to do is we will grab the quick release skewer, which we found in the parts box. Okay. It has a lever on one side and another on the other end. Take the nut off and one of the two springs. Now, that axle I was telling you about in the front wheel is hollow. So you take that skewer and just slip it right into to through that hollow axle and then put your spring on and then nut. The spring has kind of a conical shape, put the narrow side inside the bike and the wider side to the outside.
So the quick release works like this. It's a wonderful invention that came out about 25 years ago and release, made it a lot easier to change out a flat or if you had a crash in a race and you had to change out your wheel. You could do it in about 10 seconds.
So we'll hold this nut here, tighten a little bit with the lever. Once it starts to just show a little bit of resistance, a little bit of tightness, we'll go ahead and pull it up. It's a cam, so it will tighten that. I'm going to do a little bit harder. The way you want to gauge how tight this is is that you want to have, when you press it, it should leave a little bit of, a pretty good impression on the palm of your hand. In this case, we're going to be installing a fender and there's a bolt here to hold the fender on strut. So go ahead and position the cam facing backward like that, so it's nice but also out of the way. That's the main thing. There you go.
Now, since we put the stem in, let's go ahead and tighten that so we don't forget about it. Grab your 6 millimeter Allen wrench. Okay. If you look at the stem, you pull it out. There's a mark and that will show you what's the highest, safe height that you can do, which would be about there. You can choose anywhere between the safe height, all the way down to there, depending on your comfort. We'll just throw it here to start off with. After you start riding, you'll know what's right for you.
When you start tightening, what do you want to do is you want to stand over the front wheel and lining that stem upright in line with the front wheel, so everything is parallel and in line. I'm going to go ahead and tighten down the stem bolt. One thing I always mentioned is that a bicycle, unlike a car, you don't want to tighten down the bolts too much. You can usually on most of the bolts on a bicycle just use one hand with a tool that does not have a lot of torque. On the stem bolt, that's a little bit different. You can go ahead and crank on that one pretty hard, make it nice and secure. Okay.
On the handlebar, to adjust those, go ahead and undo the handlebar bolt here, 6 millimeters. You're going to do it so that the grips are about parallel with the ground, more or less. there's no right or wrong answer with that. If you start writing and you prefer it up a little bit more or down a little bit more, just go ahead and loosen this and adjust it to your liking.
Let me go back to this front wheel. I should have mentioned something earlier when we were putting in the quick release. You want to make sure that when you're tightening the wheel in that it's very centered in the forks. Okay? It can lead to the left, it can lead to the right. This is common if you're not paying attention. Make sure it's centered right in there. We'll look at it right now and then tighten it down. This will affect your brake adjustments. If it's too far to the right or the left, you'll never get the brake adjustment right. Also, if you do take the wheel out, say you want to put the bike in a car and you take the wheel out, or you want to lock it up and lock your front wheel with the rear wheel, when you put the front wheel back in, it needs to be lined up again so that the brakes match up with the rim.
Next step, let's go ahead and put the pedals on. Here we have the pedals. A quick word about the pedals, you may know this. A lot of people don't. There is a right one and there is a left one, and this is because the right pedal has regular threads righty tighty. But the left pedal has a left-hand thread, they're reverse threaded. So it's lefty tighty. This is engineered so that when you're riding the bike, nothing becomes unwound. All right? So with the right pedal, it's the regular way, turn right to tighten. On the left, you're going to turn left.
I'll do the right one first. Turn to the right, tighten clockwise, to the right means clockwise, and then you'll tighten it with a 15-millimeter wrench. Take your 15 millimeters and make that nice and snug. Now, for the left pedal, I'm going to turn this bike like this so that I can show you how this left goes, in case you've never seen this before. There's another zip tie, I guess. I thought I'd gotten all of them.
I left the packaging. This is just a habit of mine. I always leave the packaging on while I'm assembling a bike. You just never know if he might drop a tool or make some other mistake and hit the bike, chip the paint. Just keep the packaging on while you're working on it. There's no reason to take it all off. I know you're excited, you want to see it. Take it off, but it's a habit of mine just to leave it on, protects the bike till you're ready to ride.
Now we've got the left pedal. This one is a reverse thread. So here it is. It's going to go into the cranks and we're going to turn it, instead of clockwise, we're going to turn it counterclockwise to the left, lefty tighty. Nice and snug. There we go. Grab the seat post, take the plastic off. You know all about quick releases now. There's a quick release as well for the seat post. This is a really convenient feature. All you do is just tighten that down that a little bit and then you can clamp down it. This is a great feature because if you're riding your bike, you don't like the saddle height, you can just adjust it super easily, close it again. If you have a friend who's taller than you, shorter than you, you can let them borrow it.
Also, if you're in an area where the bike may be tampered with or something might get stolen, sometimes it happens out at the beach or downtown areas, you can actually remove the saddle and throw it in your backpack or your basket and take it with you. That'll prevent it from getting taken.
So now we have the seat post. Let's get the saddle out. Be careful when you open the saddle. You could rip the leather on it with your knife when opening the box. Here's the saddle. We're going to set it right on here, but first I'm going to come up and show you something. So the saddle attaches under the seat post with this assembly here. There's a nut on each side. Make sure you tighten the two nuts evenly. Tighten this one a little bit, tighten that one a little bit. Tighten this one a little bit, tighten that one a little bit. You don't want to just crank down on one side. It'll strip the other nut. Okay. Set it on there. I may have to loosen a little bit.
So when you're adjusting the saddle, you want to start off with it being level with the ground. That's just a good starting point. Later on, everyone's different. You may want to nose it down a little bit. You may want to tilt it up a little bit, depending on your preference. Okay. Then, as I said before, go ahead and tighten this one down a little bit. Then go to the other side, tighten this guy down a little bit. You'll also notice on this particular model, this saddle's on a rail, which means it can also be moved forward or backward a little bit for your comfort. If you feel like you need to sit back a little more, you can push the saddle back a little bit. Going to tighten this one a little more and that a little more. And back to here and to finish up.
All right, There we go. I'm going to go ahead and take the packaging off now. You could still leave it on, but we'll take it off so we can see the bike and have... just see a little better what I'm doing for the next few steps. (silence)
All right. Well, that'll do it a little bit, but we need that clear to when we adjust the gears. All righty. Now the next step, this is a pretty simple and quick bike to put together here. We're just going to go ahead and adjust the brakes now. So we'll go ahead and do the front brakes first. It looks like what we need is a 10-millimeter socket. So what we'll do first, come over here and show you. We'll go ahead and adjust the brake pad position.
You want the brake pads, they just slide up and down this slot here. You can loosen it a little bit, just a little bit, maybe just a quarter turn even. And then you can push it upright against the rim. You want to line up with the rim. You want it low enough so it's not touching the tire, as high as you can get it, and show a sliver of the rim above. Definitely don't want it anywhere near that tire. So now when it comes in, it's nice and parallel with the rim. That will grab perfectly. Hold that pad tightly with your other hand and with the tightening hand, give it a pretty good tighten on that, so that it won't skew out of position later on when you use it.
Do the same thing for the other side. Hold on to that brake pad and tighten that nut there. There you go. Now, this came loose. There's no way that will stop. It's not tight enough. Okay, the break isn't tight enough. So what we're going to do now, just go ahead and loosen the pinch bolt for the cable here. You can use your hand here to pull the brakes together and pull that cable line. Try and take the slack on that cable. You can have the break almost to the rim here because it's going to open up a little bit. We can always adjust it. So here I have, I'm holding the brake close to the rim. I pull all the slack out of the cable. I'm going to tighten the pinch bolt again. And we'll test it and see if it's how we like it or not.
Nope. Part of the cable settled in, but I didn't notice before, maybe right here. So we're going to loosen that again and pull even more slack out of the cable. So I'm glad that happened actually. I can show you that may happen and sometimes the cable housing isn't seated properly or something like that. When it gets that tension, it'll let you know. So we're just going to do the same process again, but now I'm pulling another maybe quarter-inch more cable through than I had done before, and tighten it. And see if it's tight, see if it's how I like it. Feels pretty good to me. It could be a little bit tighter. I'll go ahead and tighten just a little bit more while you're watching, just so you can know that has built probably, I don't know, 5 or 6,000 bikes, still got to go back and forth a little bit sometimes. Nice. It can be a little looser now. Maybe I ought to loosen a little bit, but it's pretty good. I like it.
The next step, go ahead and lift the front part of the bike up, spin the wheel. See if it's rubbing on either side. Good. If it is, you can adjust the centering. You can loosen it back here a little bit and then turn the calibers how you like and then tighten down. It's pretty straightforward on the caliper brakes. Good. Perfect. All right. We'll do the same thing on the rear brakes. Now notice we have not installed the rack yet because this gives us room to work. You can certainly adjust the brakes with the rack installed and that may have to happen later on in the next year or two, whenever you have some maintenance done and the rack is installed, but it's nice to leave it undone for now. I'm going to take this a little bit of packaging off here too. There we go.
That's a good-looking bike. Okay. So for the rear, it's going to be the same thing. Go ahead and take a 10-millimeter socket or your wrench, loosen just a little bit, move the pad right to the rim so you can see exactly where it's going to land. Give yourself just a sliver of rim showing nice and close to the tire but in no danger of touching it. And then same with the other side, This one actually already has a nice tension to it. But again, if you did feel like it was too tight or too loose, you can loosen this pinch bolt here. You can loosen this pinch bowl here and then just adjust the brakes.
We'll loosen it a little bit, just for fun. So I'm going to loosen this and let a little cable out, just a little. That was about a millimeter there. Now I'm tightening it back. And now the brakes get a little bit looser, it's a nice feel. Pick it up, see if it spins freely. It does, it's not hitting the brakes. So perfect, just what we needed. Here's some more packaging from the gears, discard.
Now, if you like, before we do the gears, which would be the most fun part for everybody. It's not difficult. It's easier to do with a stand in the shop, but we can also do it right here in the garage. And I promise you can do it too. So let's do the rack first. Go ahead and grab an Allen wrench, 4 millimeters. There are bolts already in the frame. They're in the frame already. I'm going to go ahead and remove them. Okay. I'm going to put them right back in when we put the rack where it goes. There's one bolt, hold onto it. (silence) There's a second bolt, and then move the rack into place. The holes will line up, put the holes on the frame. Then just put the bolt right back in, 4 millimeter Allen wrench. Super easy.
Get the other side started. When you tighten all the way down, just make it snug. Don't use two hands. Just use one hand. Just use one hand to finish the tightening, because if you give too much torque it will definitely strip the bolt and you might not be able to ride your bike until you get a new one.
Okay. Now let's adjust the rear derailleur. These will be your gears. And then after that, we'll just pump up the tires and we'll be done. Okay. So all we need for this is a 9-millimeter socket or an adjustable wrench or a 9-millimeter wrench just to loosen the cable here at this pinch bolt. And then I'm going to adjust it with a high and low set screws with the Phillips head screwdriver, just two tools.
The first thing we're going to do is go ahead and you just go up to the shifter and just put it all the way into seventh gear. You may be in some other gear. You'll hear some clicks. We'll click into seventh gear. So take the shifter all the way to seventh gear. Let me just see if I can show you. Here's the gear. Here's the shifter. Put that into seventh. That's important. Go ahead and loosen the cable. Now the derailleur is free, it's not attached to the cable anymore.
Now what you're going to do is, as I explained, sometimes in a bike shop with the bike in a stand, I can do this very quickly in about 40 seconds. The reason why is because when you're shifting, the gears won't shift unless the pedals are turned, but we're going to have to do a little bit of adjusting and then picking up the bike and turn the pedals and then shifting again, going back and forth just a little bit. So take a little bit of time, but it's pretty simple.
What we're going to do is right now, since the cable isn't attached, the derailleur has a spring in it. The spring pulled it all the way out, as far as it can go away from the bike, away from the wheel, and that will pull the chain over to the seventh gear, which is the smallest one. And that's what it is. Right now it's in the seventh and so is my shifter. Okay. We want to make sure that it's perfectly in seventh gear. So what we're going to do is go over to these two little screws on the derailleur right here. There's a high and a low.
Our goal is that the chain is coming down from the gear down to the derailleur and through here. We want this to be lined up perfectly and vertically just like that. Turn this, the high limit screw, you turn it clockwise, it's going to start pushing the derailleur in like this, and that's pushing it towards sixth gear. If you tighten this enough and you push this in enough, it will actually shift into sixth gear. But we want to be perfectly in line with seventh gear and about to shift into sixth gear, but not yet. So I'm going to go down here and I'm going to adjust that so it's lined up nicely. Okay.
That looks good to me. It looks close to the sixth gear, but not yet, but not shifting into it yet. Let's turn and see if it makes any noise. It is making a little bit of noise, so I may actually have it a little too close to the sixth year. So I'm going to back that out just a tad, maybe a quarter turn. Okay. And then we'll see if it is a little quieter. It is quieter, getting there, rubbing on the. Oh, right here. The chain is rubbing a little bit on the chain guard. No worries. Everything's nice and quiet. It's in seventh gear, but it's not trying to shift into sixth gear. Okay.
So keeping it in seventh up in the shifter, go ahead and come back down to the derailleur, and we're going to attach the cable now that the shifter and the gears match. So they're both in seven, they're adjusted perfectly. Let's go ahead and pull the cable as much you can, get the slack out and reattach the cable by tightening that pinch bolt, a 9 millimeter. There you go. Now what we'll do, go back to the shifter. We'll go into our shifter here. We want to take it one click from seventh to sixth, one-click only, one click. Now I'm going to turn the pedal. Take your kickstand up, turn the pedals, and it should go into sixth gear, and we'll see. It does, it shifts into sixth gear.
Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes what that means is that there's a little bit of slack in the cable. In this case, we didn't need to do it. You may find out when we do it to the rest of the gears. But there is a barrel adjuster right here. This is a little plastic piece that you can turn counterclockwise and that will tighten the cable up. Okay. That will make it shift into the next gear more easily. When we're going down seven, six, five, four, three, two, one.
So now let's go to shifter again and shift from sixth just to five, one click. Now we're in fifth gear up here. We going to turn the pedals and we're going to see if it goes into fifth gear. It did, it went right into fifth. So now try fourth, one click. Pedal, and it goes, it shifted right into fourth. Third. Second, shifting right up perfectly. And then first gear, which is the largest of the gears. Okay. So the gears work perfectly. They'll work great on the way back down.
But there's one more thing we need to do just to make sure that it's done perfectly. And that is getting your Phillips again. There's the high limit screw and the low limit screw. We already set the high limit screw. The low limit screw it doesn't do anything but block the derailleur from continuing to go past the first year and into the wheel. So if you look at it, it's this screw right here. You can see through to it and it actually goes back to touch part of the derailleur. It's stopping the derailleur from going any farther towards the wheel. You want to back that out actually just a little bit so that maybe there's a sliver of daylight between the end of that screw and where it's stopping on the derailleur. That will give the derailleur enough room to make sure it gets into first gear, but not so much that it has any danger of getting into the spokes.
Okay. Last step, besides pumping up the tires and going through a test drive, we'll call the front fender. Front fender has a tab on it on the top. That's going to go in the back of the fork right back here. So what we're going to do is take your 10 millimeters. I'm going to take it out so I can show you, and loosen the brakes and take the breaks out. There are two washers back here. One is curved. One is curved to fit the fork, and then another one is here for the nut. You want to put that tab between the two washers, right between those two guys.
So I'm going to put this curved one back on first. Then we'll slip the fender in, then the small flat washer, Then the 10-millimeter nut, right on there like that. We'll tighten back down. Again, just one hand tight, don't need a lot of torque on that, keep the brakes centered. You're going to recheck the brakes after you do it, make sure you the brake. We'll wait till we finish installing the fender.
Let me show you actually back here where we moved the lever of the quick release out of the way actually. This strut here is going to go actually in the back. So even though this is the, it's here in the front. It's going to go in the back. So we want to grab the 4 millimeters Allen. On the bike you receive, who knows, maybe it'll be on the other eyelet. This one happens to be on the front. No problem. Just pull it out of that one, put the strut over that eyelet there and then put the bolt back in. Same thing on the other side. And that strut will attach to the back behind the fork.
Okay. Make sure the fender is centered. You can just move it over like that if you need to. Same thing over here, give it a little push. Just make sure it's all centered up, and then give the wheel a spin, should be nice and quiet and go for a very long time. All right. There we go. Last thing you want to do, make sure you pump up the tires. You'll see on the side, it lists the pressure for the tire. I'm guessing this one's going to be about 85... 75. So this one says to inflate to 50 to 75 PSI. It's very simple to do.
Go ahead and take the cap off the valve, apply the pump, turn the lever up to lock it onto the valve, and then pump it up. This one has a pressure of 50 to 75. When you're doing this, and before you start also, make sure to look and see that the tire is seated well in the rim nice and snug and it's not coming out anywhere. Sometimes they can unseat, the tire can seat from the rim and the tube could come out and you'll get a flat. Sometimes it makes a loud noise and is kind of startling. I would recommend just putting it at the very top end of the pressure range, 75 PSI. It makes riding a lot easier with more pressure. It's amazing the difference you can feel. If your tire starts to get a low, you may not notice. But then if you pump it back up again, it gets a lot easier.
That's the Sixthreezero Ride in the Park, and I'm really glad you got it. I wish you many miles of happy riding. I know that my greatest times have always been on a bike, riding out there and feeling free, peaceful, and happy. Thank you.
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