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BODY EASE MEN sixthreezero Bike Assembly - How To Assemble Your sixthreezero Bicycle

September 14, 2021



Hey guys, welcome. This is Peter with SixThreeZero in the garage. So what we're doing with this series is to show you how to build the bike when you receive it online and in the garage. A lot of times in the old days and with race bikes and mountain bikes nowadays, you definitely want to get your bike in a bike shop. But for the entry-level bike, recreational bikes, the world has changed and we buy things on the internet now. So a lot of times this is where you'll be, you'll order your bike and then you'll be in the garage. And so we don't have the bike stand, we don't have the professional equipment. It's okay, we can still put together that bike for you, and I'm going to show you how all right.

We don't need a lot of tools. We just need a box cutter or some snips, something to open the box, and then to cut the zip ties. We're going to need a nine millimeter and 10 millimeters, either socket wrench, or a regular wrench. So nine, 10-millimeter wrench. Four, five, and six-millimeter Allen wrenches, a Phillips screwdriver. And then we also want some bigger wrenches, 13, 14, and 15 millimeters. Also, you can use the old Crescent wrench or adjustable wrench there. Okay. I'm going to set these to the side.


This is the SixThreeZero Body Ease, it's a 21 speed. Like I said, a more complicated bike like that is usually assembled in a bike shop. But nowadays, of course, we do like to buy things online, and so I can show you that we can adjust all the things, the brakes and the gears for this bicycle, the front and rear derailleur and the brakes.


Okay. So let's get the knife here and let's open up the box. So it'll come here, all taped up for shipping. Okay. When you open up the men's Body Ease, you're going to find at the top, a parts box. All right. Go ahead and open that. Get rid of that first.


And I'll lay these out in front, so you can see them nicely. First of all, we just have some tools which may help, a five and six-millimeter wrench, a multi-tool and then some reflectors. Also, have one other item in here. This is a cover for the headset, which is below the handlebars. It's just a little cover that will go and cover some of the hardware and make the bike look a little nicer. Pedals and the quick-release skewer. That's it. That's all that's in the parts box. Okay. Let's see what to do with all those. Now go ahead and pull the bike out of the box. Here's our bike, standing there by itself. Nothing left in the box but some packaging, and there is an owner's manual as well. So the first thing I'm going to do, I'm going to take the knife again, the box cutters or the snips, and we're just going to cut all the zip ties. Cut all the zip ties you can find. Usually, I miss at least two, there aren't that many actually.


Okay. I think that's all the zip ties. We'll find out later if it's not. So here's what happens now, the handlebars are loose, they're going to be down here like this. We can pull out the saddle and then the seat post. We're going to take the packaging off of that, so you can see what that looks like. There we go. Just like that. Set it out here for you to see, so that you're clear on everything. Go ahead and pull the wheel off of the crank car and discard the cardboard. There are two pieces of plastic on either side of the axle, that's just packaging, we pull those guys off as well. Now go ahead and, we take this piece of packaging out of the top of the bike right here. This is called the headset. Take the packaging out of the headset. And just for now, we're going to set the handlebars in there, just to get them out of our way.


And the handlebars, you got to be careful how we put them in. And I'll show you right now actually, that we want the cables to have a nice flow. This one, this side coming up this way, this one like this, and then this one crossing over, it's a nice natural flow. When they pack the bike in order to save room in the box and all that, they've turned the fork backward, the fork is backward right now. Take off this packaging here. And this is also packaging, discard that. You've got to turn the fork around like this to the front. Make sure you turn the fork around to the front. The bike will stand like that, just fine on its own.


And we'll take the front wheel. So we've got the front wheel. Now this tire is directional, it doesn't matter that much on a bicycle, on a car if you hit heavy rains or whatever, that will help shed water or keep you on the road, on a bicycle, it's less important. However, it will look nice if it's in the right direction, if you're confused about which direction to face it, just reference the rear wheel and match it.


I'm going to slip the front wheel in, but first, to do that, we have to open the brakes up. It's very simple, you can just squeeze them together a little bit. There's this silver curve piece here called a noodle. You can just squeeze these together a little bit and then pull that noodle out of this tab here, and the brakes will open up nice and wide, and then we can just put the wheel in right there. And we're going to rest the forks on the axle. Now you'll see that the axle is very short, it does not protrude outside of the fork, there's just a little bit of it coming out of the hub.


Go ahead and put the kickstand down and the bike will hold itself nicely. Here you go. All right. So with that axle being short like that, it's because it's not bolted on used to with the nuts going on to the axle to hold it onto the fork. What actually happens is we take this quick-release skewer that we took out of the parts box, there are two springs on it and a nut here.


Remove the nut and one of the springs. The axle in this front wheel is hollow. So you can just take quickly skewer and put it right through that axle. Put the spring back on, the narrow end of the spring goes on it first, then the nut. When you're tightening the skewer, you want it in an open position. And then let's move the bike over a little bit, so you can see what I'm talking about. There we go. So this was closed when you can read the name on it, and open when you can't. So go ahead and tighten it down a little bit, tighten it in the open position. And then when it gets to where it's giving a little bit of resistance, go ahead and try giving it... to close it. The best way to tell if it's tight enough is if you tighten up a little bit, and then you go ahead and clamp it close with the palm of your hand.

When you close it, it should leave a good impression on the palm of your hand, and that'll make it nice and snug. Now, be mindful when you put the wheel in, it needs to be centered. Sometimes when you tighten that down, it may be a little to the left, it may go a little to the right, just make sure that you got that centered as best you know-how. Sometimes you can hold it with your left hand and tighten the right, make sure it's nice and center in the fork, that way you can get the brakes adjusted nicely. If it's too much to your left or right, you'll never get those brakes adjusted when the time comes for it. 


Okay. Now let's grab that little part, we had the headset cover. Again, this is just a cosmetic piece. It's not even necessary, but it does look nice. So we'll go ahead and grab your six-millimeter Allen wrench. We'll hold onto that. We're going to pull the handlebar back out, and I'm going to place that cover just right on top of the headset, pop it on there. And then we'll throw the handlebars back in. This part that holds the handlebars is called the stem. The stem has a mark on it, shows you the highest point that you can pull it out. Don't have it out any higher than that, it's dangerous.


Get your six-millimeter Allen and tighten down on the stem bolt. If it starts to get a little firm, go ahead and stand over the front wheel and line that stem up, right with the front wheel. That's how you get it lined right up. Just do your best job, everyone sees a little bit differently. And if it doesn't look right to you when you're on the bike, get back off and you can adjust it back again. This particular bike has also three bolts on the top to adjust the handlebar angle. So it's also a six millimeter. We'll loosen those three a little bit. You don't need to do much, maybe a half-turn, maybe one turn at the most. While it's loose like this, you can go ahead and take off the packaging. The packaging was on the handlebar before it got installed in the stem. So you're going to have to move it back and forth a little bit to get all the packaging off and out of there.


Okay. Once you do that, then go over ahead and tilt the handlebars forward, about like that. You'll know when you ride the bike, if it feels right for you, if you don't like it like that, you can tilt it forward a little more. You can always tilt it back a little more, about like that is about where most people will enjoy riding with it. Also, as you can notice, the shifter and brake lever units are also already adjusted for about that position, these can also be tilted. Here's a note.

On the clamp, there are three bolts right here on this clamp. Make sure you tighten those evenly, don't just crank down on one and then do the next one, then do the next one. Do them all at the same time, a little bit, a little bit, a little bit, going around each time. That's just typical for any sort of multi-bolt tightening situation. That's a pretty funny phrase. All right.


Now you may notice that I didn't take all the packaging off, I just removed the zip ties. I did that to protect the frame while I'm working. That's just a habit of mine, I usually do that when I assemble bicycles, just leave the packaging on. That way, if something happens while you're working, you drop a tool or you make a bad movement, you could scratch your frame before you've even ridden it. So keep the packaging on, I would say. I'm going to take it off right now so that you can see more clearly and it doesn't look so... so it looks less confusing with all this extra stuff. But my recommendation is, go ahead and leave the packaging on until you are done with the assembly. Your plastic pieces on both sides of the rear wheel, throw those away.

Here we go. Let's do the pedals. Pedals next and then we'll work up from there. With the pedals, you may know this, but some people don't, there's a right one and there's a left one and it matters, they're not both the same. The right one is regular threaded. So when you thread it into the bike, it's going to be to the right or clockwise, which is the regular way. Righty, tidy. With the left one though, you're going to be threading to the left, counterclockwise. So it's the opposite. Instead of righty tidy, the left one is lefty tidy. And I'll show you how to put both of those on. Go ahead and insert into the crank, turn the right one clockwise to the right.


And when you got as tight as you can with your hand, then you're going to grab your 15-millimeter wrench and just go ahead and snug it down. So I've got the 15 millimeters, make it nice and snug. Now for the left one, let's turn this way so you can see, here we go. This one remembers is the opposite. So instead of righty tidy like normal, we're going to go left, lefty tidy, counterclockwise towards the front of the bike, with our turning. And that'll tighten in as tight as you can go with your hand. And then you can finish up with the 15 millimeters, make that nice and snug.


Here we go. And onto the saddle. The saddle on this bike is already on the C post. It makes it easy to do, you can adjust, open the quick release C post clamp. This one's also very easy to open up, just like the front wheel. You slide that in. This one also has a minimum depth, just like the standard, put it in like this, tighten down, so it's snug, and then clamp it. A little too tight, here we go. Loosen it a little bit, clamp it down like that. Now, quickly saddle is a great thing. I just want to tell you a little bit about it really quickly. You can use it to adjust it up or down if you need you to. A lot of times you'll find a saddle height that you like, and you won't need to move it up and down though.


But if you have a friend who's riding at a different height than you, you can adjust it. Also, if you're in an area where the bike may be tampered with or stolen even, the beach or downtown areas, you can take the saddle out and take it with you or put it in a more convenient place where it can also be locked with the rest of the bike. Because sometimes it happens, that people will have the saddle taken.


Okay. So the bike is basically assembled at this point. We need to adjust the brakes and the gears still. This is a 21 speed, so we're going to doing the rear gears and the front gears as well. Okay. But we'll start with the brakes, we'll do the brakes first. The brakes only require two tools. They're really quite simple, but you got to get them just right. And you can do it, I'll show you how. All you need is a five-millimeter Allen wrench and a Phillip screwdriver. So we'll start on this side, and get my five and loosen the nut on the back of the brake pad, turn the brake pad. And while it's loose, it can slide up and down, it can be moved up and down to the right or the left, all over the place. Go ahead and while it's loose, push it up against the rim, then you know it's going to be right where it needs to be to contact that rim perfectly. Make sure there's a little bit of rim at the top, you don't want that brake pad getting anywhere near the tire.


So line it up just perfectly, push it up against the rim, tighten down. You may want to back off and the just hold the pad where it is, so it doesn't twist, then you tighten the nut, and then tighten down on it. With most bolts and nuts on the bike, they're not like a car you don't want to just crank down as hard as you can on it. Usually, just one hand is enough strength, will be enough force to tighten it. You don't need extra torque. It can be easy to strip or snap a bolt-on a bike if you go too far, so don't do it. Sometimes it'll make the bike impossible to ride even until you get the new part, so.


Then we'll do the other brake pad. Let's see if I can do it this way, and you can still see here. Okay, here we go. It's a little bit loose so I can move the pad up and down, move it all different sorts of ways. I'm going to push it right up against the rim, so I know it's right where I like it. And when it's right where I like it, I'll go ahead and tighten it down.


And then holding it nice and in place, and make it nice and tight so it won't slip out a position later on. Now loosen the cable with that same five millimeters. Now the cable's nice and loose. Now on the other end, it's not attached to the brake lever. This is the brake lever right here. We're going to put the cable into the brake lever, like this. So pull it out and here's the cable, and then end here we will slip into... if you pull the brake lever back, there'll be a little tab that comes out with a little circle and a little slot in it, you can just slip it right into there. Now, this whole brake is slotted if you look, including the barrel adjusters over here. And you can line those slots right up, and slip the cable through. See that, you just slipped right in.


You can move those off a little bit so that now it's in there, it can't come out and then slide the cable housing. That's this black part, it's called the cable housing. Slide that into the brake lever. Perfect. Now go down here and grab what's called the... This is called the noodle, the silver guy here. You can slip it into this tab here and that will connect the brakes together. We still have the cable loose, we haven't tightened it with the pinch bolt yet. So now what I'm going to do is, I like to just grab the end of the cable like this, push the brakes in and I'll hold it with my hand. Pretty tight. About as tight as I think maybe it should be and a little bit tighter than that actually.


And then tighten down the cable, and then I'll give this a squeeze and see how I like it. It feels a little too tight for me, there's not a lot of movement. So I will loosen this and I'll let out a little bit of cable. I just let out maybe about two millimeters of cable, now that squeeze feels nice. That feels about right, right there. Give it a few hard squeezes to take out any slack. Okay, it looks good. Now you want to test and see if the wheel is going to move through the brakes. Now look, the wheels are actually dragging on the right brake here, it can't move at all. So we have to center the brakes. That's done with this Phillips right here. It's super easy to do.

Both sides of the brake have an adjustment screw right here. If you turn this adjustment screw, this is just a Phillips, clockwise, and you tighten it, it will push against that spring and make this brake stronger. So it will pull more away from the wheel. It looked like it would need a lot, I'm going to give it about three turns there. I'm going to give the brake a few squeezes, still didn't work, it's still up against that one. That means this one's about as strong as it can be, but this one's still stronger. So I'm going to actually do the opposite on this one now. I'm going to back this screw out, and I'll make this brake a little bit weaker. Give it a few squeezes, now they're much more centered.


You can see, it's not dragging at all, it'll just keep going and going. Perfect. That's great. Feels good up here. Now, we'll roll smoothly. Let's go do the same thing in the back. Exact same process. Five millimeters to the nut here behind the pad. Loosen that pad so it can move up and down all around. While it's loose, push up against the rim and get in the position it needs to be in. While it's in the position that you like it, go ahead and tighten it. Be careful that the pad doesn't twist when you're tightening, so hold it tight. And then I'll do the other side.


Okay. This cable, you don't have to put in it, it's already in the brake lever up here. You can see it's moving the brakes right here. What I do want to see though, is if the brakes are centered, so I'm going to move the wheel. In this case, the brakes are centered, it looks really good. The wheel's moving freely, the brakes stop perfectly. However, if it wasn't again, I could use the adjustment screws here, turning it in a tightening direction clockwise, to make this brake pull away from the rim, making this brake pull away from the rim a little bit or vice versa there. Or I could turn it counterclockwise to weaken it, in which case it would get a little closer to the rim. All right. Now that we've done the rear brake, we didn't want to do the rack yet because it would get in our way.


Okay. Now we've got the brakes done. Since the brake is out of the way, we can go ahead and attach the rack. We left that till after the brakes, just because it can get in our way a little bit. So to do that, the bolts you need are already in the frame, all you need is a four-millimeter Allen, go ahead and remove those two bolts, one on each side, slide the rack in to align those holes. Now very carefully line up those bolts. Sometimes that rack wants to move over a little bit and change the angle of the bolt and all that. That will cause the bolts to cross threads and that's not good. It's quite common actually, which is why I'm letting you know for this particular part of the operation.


So that bolt should go in nice and smoothly, if it's not, back that thing out and start again. It means you let the rack angle that bolt. Now when you tighten it, one hand is just nice and snug, just gentle. You don't want to snap that bolt, it can happen if you give it too much pressure. Sometimes people don't know how strong they are. Okay, we'll do this one.


All right, everybody. Taada, the rear rack is on, that was super easy. Now we got the brakes done, we've got everything on the bike. It looks like a bike. You can go ride it right now. But we do need to adjust the gears if you want to get them shifting just perfectly. At the factory, they'll put on the parts, but they don't adjust the gears. It takes a little bit of doing. Now in the bike shop, we would put the bike up in a bike stand. Hold it up like this because the gears won't shift unless the pedals are being turned like this, so it's easy to work on the gears and turn the pedals at the same time. Now to adjust to a rear derailleur, I could usually do that in the shop in about 40 seconds, get all perfectly adjusted.


Here, it's going to be a little bit of back and forth, okay. It takes a little bit of time, it's not a difficult thing to do though. And I'll show you how, right now. So the first thing you want to do is, you've got the shifter at the top here and the shifter on the right is for the rear. And you can see it's numbered. It shows the gears 1, 2, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7. Go ahead and pull the trigger, and there's a trigger which goes to the higher gears. And then there's a thumb that lets you go back to the lower gear. Go ahead and pull the trigger all the way until it gets to seven. So pull it, hit that trigger several times to get the shift here, all the way to number seven. Now take up the kickstand, pick up the back of the bike, pedal the bike, and that chain will come right down to the seventh gear.

Now all we need to adjust the rear derailleur, is a nine-millimeter socket or a nine-millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench. There's a nine-millimeter nut right here that we're going to have to loosen, and then just the Phillips. So nine millimeter, Phillips, two tools. First thing you do is, you want to loosen the cable. You do not want to adjust the derailleur when it's under any sort of tension or pressure from the cable, so go ahead and loosen that. There we go, that's loose now. Don't loosen it up so much that it comes off, it's hard to put back on.


Now, the derailleur is free of the cable, it can move back and forth all it wants to. It's going to naturally change, naturally going to go into the smallest gear, which is seven. So now what we want to do, and this is where it's different from doing it in a bike stand, is that the derailleur is going to move towards the wheel and away from the wheel, to move the chain into the gears. When the chain is actually in a gear, it should be lined up nice and vertically with the rest of the derailleur. So you can see the chain down here, should be lined up perfectly with this. And you can also see that the chain next to the other gear is getting close to shifting into the next gear, which would be number six, but not so much that it does.


Now, the way to adjust that is, there are two screws here, one is a high set screw, and one is a low set screw. We're going to do the high set one, which is this one right here. It's just a Phillips. If I tighten this, it's going to push the derailleur towards the wheel. So I'm going to start doing that, I'm going to start tightening that. I'm going to over tighten it and you can see what happens. It's going to push it right into sixth gear. So now if I go over here, kick up the kickstand, start to pedal, it's starting to want to shift to the sixth gear, and it actually did because I tightened too much on that high limit screw. So let's back that back out, and then make sure that chain is lined up nicely with the seventh. Let's see if that goes back into seventh.


There it is. Now in seventh, it's not making any noise, any racket there in the back. So it's perfectly adjusted for seven. That's great. So at this point, since the shifter is in seventh, and we know that we just adjusted the gear for seven, they agree, at this point, we'll reattach the cable. Give it a few tugs, so there's no slack in there. Put it back in the pinch bolt, get your nine millimeters, tighten it down. Make sure that one's pretty snug because sometimes the cable can want to pull out if you didn't quite get it tight enough. Okay, now go back up to the shifter, we're in seventh right now, we're going to do one click to sixth gear, from seven to six. Ready? One-click. Okay?


Take up the kickstand and we'll pedal and see if it actually goes into sixth. It did go into sixth, that's great. Sometimes it doesn't want to go into sixth, that's because there's a little bit of slack somewhere on the cable, you can adjust that very easily. Instead of going back to the pinch bolt, there's a barrel adjuster right here. Just turn that counterclockwise, maybe two or three turns. Try it again, see if that takes the slack out of the cable and moves it into six.


So now let's do five. We're going from six to five, in one click, just one click. Should go into fifth gear now. Perfect. Now one click to four. Four? Yes. Three, two, and now one. One is a little sluggish, so I'm going to do what I just said, tighten that cable a little bit. See if we can get it into one let's see. Maybe a little bit tighter. There's one other thing. So for the low limit, that's the next one. And then we'll get the first gear correct because we don't have it yet. There is a limit screw, which is the low one. So we have the high one and then the low one. The low one is right here.


And if you look, it goes right through derailleur, you can see the end of it. And it's pushing up against part of the derailleur, there. All that's doing is stopping the derailleur from moving past first gear and into your spokes, which would be dangerous. So we want to make sure that there's a little bit of room between the end of the low limit screw and the derailleur, a little bit of daylight, so that the chain has enough room to get into first, but not so much that it goes into the spokes.

The low limit screw is set properly, so it seems like we need a little more tension to get into first gear. In first, I'm going to put it in second. And then we move it into first. Yeah, there it goes, right there into your first gear. And then if you want, you can check it on the way back down, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. And I can go put it back in four do the front derailleur. So the rear derailleur is done. Good job. Front derailleur. Front derailleurs are actually a little more tricky, a little more art to the front derailleur, but you can also do it. So the first thing we're going to do is go ahead and put your shifter here, pull the trigger until it gets into first gear. It's going to say one up here. Just pull that trigger two or three or four times, just get it into first there. Then when you turn the pedals, your chain will go into the smallest chainring, okay? As well.


Now, what we need is a five-millimeter Allen wrench, and I'm going to use the one that came in the box and we're going to loosen the cable pinch bolt. So the cable is loose. Again, we don't ever want to adjust the derailleur when it's attached to the cable, we'll just be fighting forces and we could approximate, but we'll never get this right. Just take that cable out like that, nice and loose. Now what we're going to do is, if you look at the front derailleur, what it wants to do, there's a little sticker on axle which is a guide. And if you pull the derailleur out away from the bike with your hands, you can away like this. It'll come and line up with the teeth of the large chainring.


And you'll see on the sticker on your own bike, there's a little drawing of two teeth from the large chainring. You just want to line those up, and you want to give about one millimeter between the bottom edge of the derailleur and the teeth. About one-millimeter space. Just enough that it clears it, but not too much space. Now this one looks pretty good, but if we need to adjust it, what we do, let's go ahead and loosen this clamp right here. I'm not going to do this one because it looks really good right now. So you would loosen this clamp bolt here, enough so that it will hold its position, but that you can move it around. You can twist it a little bit, you can move it up and down. You want to get that one-millimeter space between the teeth of the large chainring and the bottom of the derailleur plate.


Now also, you want to make sure that when you look down on it, the two plates of the derailleur, those two plates are parallel with the chain as well. So we look down inside it, and again, this one looks very good, so I'm going to leave it. I'm going to reattach the cable. This one pulls down from the top, so it actually comes over a cam and then goes into the pinch bolt, so it gives you a little more leverage. But just want to be aware if it does, if yours is undone and you don't remember what it looked like. There's a channel coming over the top of the derailleur to guide the cable. And that gives you a little more leverage, makes the shifting easier.

So it actually comes over and grabs from the top, like that. All right. Now what we want to do... Actually, I skipped a step, so sorry. I've been doing this all day and can't remember the steps I'm doing. While this cable is not attached, you do want to go and there's a high and low limit screw on the front derailleur as well. You would want to turn... and you can watch on the top. You can turn the low limit screw, probably clockwise is what you'll need, to move that inner plate, towards the chain. And you want it very close to the chain, enough that it'll start almost to touch the chain, but not quite.


And actually, now that I look at mine, looks like I could use that, so let's do it. I'm going to detach the cable again, I'm going to get that low limit screw. I'm going to turn it clockwise so I can get the inside plate close to the chain, so it'll look like it's starting to push it onto the middle chainring, but not quite. There we go, nice and close, but not touching. So that when we turn the pedals, we don't hear any noise, but the inner plate of that front derailleur is very close to the chain. So that when you push the shifter it will instantly push it over. Now let's reattach the cable.


Go up to the shifter and push into second. Okay. Now lift the kickstand, turn the pedals, and it goes into the second, great. Let's put it to third, turn the pedals, and it went into third. Which is not third gear but the third chainring, which is a large chainring. And then if you like, you can also set the high steel, which will keep it from getting too far out away from the chain. I'm going to turn mine clockwise a little bit, just so it doesn't go quite as far out away from the bike as it is. Keep it nice and tight, and then it will run nice and smoothly. Okay, so now the bike is altogether. We can brake it, we can shift. It's really rideable at this point, just about, we need to pump up the tires. Let me grab my pump.


When you go to pump the tires, I always like to recommend, look around the whole wheel and make sure the tire is seated nicely onto the wheel. Sometimes the bead of the tire can come off the rim a little bit, in which case the tube would slip out and it would pop when you put pressure on it. So just look all around, make sure that that tire is nicely seated on that rim. Take the cap off the valve, get your pump, put it on the valve, pull the lever to lock it on the valve, and then start to pump it up. Also, you want to look and make sure that you do the right pressure. That will be on the side of the tire.


And on this bike, it is... There it is. This one we can take 50 to 85 PSI. So there is a range there, and that's the safe range. But I would say, just keep it at 85, because that makes a lot easier riding. If you put it in 50 PSI and then rode it around, and then brought it back in, pumped up to 85, and then rode it around, you would notice the difference. It's very noticeable. It makes for much easier riding is having it pumped up at the highest pressure. So that's it. I hope this is simple for you, and I hope that you're able to go ride your bike now. You want to go on a test ride and see if the brakes and the gears work. If they need a little bit of adjusting also the saddle and the handlebar or stem height, go ahead and make those adjustments. Have fun.

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