Why gearing on an eTrike is a different conversation
Ask a room full of cyclists about gear ratios and you'll get a long conversation about chainrings, cog counts, climbing gears and top-end speed. Ask the same question about an electric trike and the answer gets much shorter, and much friendlier. That's the point Mika makes in this video, standing next to one of our electric rickshaw trikes with a passenger seat out back and a seven-speed cassette on the rear wheel.
Mika rides a conventional bicycle with a 10- or 12-speed cassette and two chainrings up front. On that bike, gearing is a constant job. On the trike, he says, the motor does most of that work for you, filling in the spaces between gears so the ride feels like one smooth transition rather than a series of steps.
This article walks through what that actually means: what a gear ratio is, why a seven-speed setup is plenty on an eTrike, how pedal assist and gears work together, and how to find the combination you'll settle into on most rides. Along the way we'll also cover the other thing new trike riders notice right away, which is that three wheels don't corner the way two do. If you're still shopping, our full range of electric tricycles is a good place to see the different styles side by side.
","id":"d9bf55d0-8495-41b4-a622-34f4504c3db4"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"What a gear ratio actually is","body":"A gear ratio is simply the relationship between the size of the chainring your pedals turn and the size of the cog on the rear wheel that the chain is wrapped around. A big chainring paired with a small rear cog is a \"hard\" or high gear: each turn of the pedals spins the rear wheel a long way, so you go farther per stroke, but it takes more force to push. A small chainring paired with a big rear cog is an \"easy\" or low gear: each pedal stroke moves you a shorter distance, but it takes far less effort.
That's the whole trade-off. Low gears give you leverage for starting, climbing and hauling weight. High gears give you speed once you're already rolling. Every drivetrain, from a beach cruiser to a racing bike, is a way of offering you some range between those two ends.
On a bike, the number of combinations matters because your legs are the only engine. If the jump between one gear and the next is too big, you end up either pedaling too fast to be efficient or pushing too hard to be comfortable. More gears means smaller jumps, which means your legs can stay in their happy zone across more situations.
","id":"284ff2f1-b44b-41e6-aa9e-bf480004ce40"},{"layoutId":"bike-listing","variants":{},"bikes":[{"id":"017f191d-30c4-44ee-ab0b-780da9a6da35","value":{"entry":{"entryId":"38Ok7mU2FtEB6vUDqxcuag"}}}],"id":"2e3bacd1-28ea-4b32-85aa-d1b56ab45329"},{"layoutId":"full-width-image-with-out-bleed","variants":{},"image":{"assetId":"","options":{"backgroundSize":"cover"},"mobileAssetId":"","mobileOptions":{"backgroundSize":"cover"}},"id":"c4002295-1e5e-4e7b-a326-17d53d3c07e9"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Seven gears out back, and why that's enough","body":"The trike in the video has a seven-speed cassette on the rear wheel. The cassette is the stack of cogs you can see next to the hub, and the derailleur is the arm underneath that moves the chain from cog to cog when you shift. Gear one is the biggest cog and the easiest to pedal. Gear seven is the smallest and the hardest.
Mika's road-style bicycle, by comparison, has two chainrings up front and 10 or 12 cogs in back, which gives him somewhere in the range of 20 to 24 possible combinations. He needs that spread because he's covering every situation with muscle alone: steep climbs, flat sprints, descents, headwinds, tired legs at the end of a long day.
On an electric trike, seven gears covers the same territory because the motor is part of the equation. You aren't relying on a precise gear to keep your legs efficient on a climb. You have a low gear for leverage, and you have the motor adding power on top of your pedaling. That combination closes gaps that would otherwise need extra cogs.
Fewer gears also means a simpler machine. There's less to adjust, a less crowded cassette, and fewer decisions while you ride. If you ever do need to service or replace the shifting parts, you can find a replacement derailleur in our parts section, but on a seven-speed system that's an occasional job, not a regular one.
","id":"ae46aba9-a1fb-448c-8446-7955806ee4d8"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"How the motor fills in the gaps between gears","body":"This is the part Mika calls quite amazing, and it's worth understanding why. On a non-electric bike, when you shift from one gear to the next, your effort changes noticeably. Go up a gear and suddenly every pedal stroke feels heavier. Go down and your legs spin faster than they'd like for a moment. Those steps are what more gears are designed to smooth out.
With pedal assist, the motor responds to your pedaling and adds power as you ride. When you shift into a harder gear, the assist helps carry that extra load, so the jump in effort is softened. When you shift into an easier gear, the assist keeps you moving without a lurch. The result is that the steps between gears feel much smaller than they actually are. In Mika's words, the motor fills in the slots, and the ride becomes one smooth transition.
Practically, that means you don't have to hunt for the perfect gear. A gear that's \"close enough\" on an eTrike feels right, because the motor is making up the difference. Riders coming from bicycles are often surprised by how rarely they shift once they get comfortable.
It also explains the line Mika uses to sum up the whole idea: the gearing is familiar, but the motor makes every gear much more useful. Each of those seven gears covers a wider band of real-world riding than it would on an unassisted bike.
","id":"2a467773-9f37-4b8d-83ef-cc102d670bd0"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Two dials, one ride: pedal assist levels and gears","body":"A good way to think about an eTrike is that you have two separate controls that both change how hard you're working. The first is the gear, which you select with the shifter on the handlebar. The second is the pedal assist level, which you select on the display. On the trike in the video, assist runs from one to five, with one giving a light helping hand and five giving the most support.
Gears change the mechanical leverage. Assist levels change how much the motor contributes. You can get a very easy ride with a low gear and low assist, or with a mid gear and high assist. You can get a brisk, exercise-focused ride with a higher gear and low assist. The combinations are where the flexibility comes from, and it's a big part of why seven cogs is plenty.
If you're new to reading the screen, it's worth spending a few minutes with your trike parked and powered on, just to learn where the assist level shows up and how to step it up and down. Our eBike display options give you a sense of the kinds of readouts you'll be working with, including assist level, speed and battery status.
One habit worth building early: change one dial at a time while you're learning. If the ride suddenly feels too hard, try dropping a gear first. If it still feels like work, then bump the assist. Changing both at once makes it hard to learn what each one does.
","id":"33958543-458c-42b6-af91-1f2de644c3ae"},{"layoutId":"full-width-image-with-out-bleed","variants":{},"image":{"assetId":"4GbqMKAQYoApAxPsFlFbDJ","options":{"backgroundSize":"cover"},"mobileAssetId":"","mobileOptions":{"backgroundSize":"cover"}},"id":"be046dcd-1564-49fa-83ec-a04b9e69a297"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Finding your sweet spot: start around two or three","body":"Mika's advice for where most riders end up is refreshingly simple. Once you're more experienced and you've settled in, you'll probably sit at a midpoint on both controls. For the pedal assist, that's somewhere around level two or three out of five. For the seven-speed cassette, it's also somewhere around gear two or three. Those two mid-range settings complement each other, and you end up cruising with very little effort.
There are a few good reasons that combination works so well. A mid-range assist level gives you real help without draining the battery as quickly as the top setting. A lower-middle gear keeps your pedaling light enough that you can start from a stop without strain, which matters on a trike that may be carrying a passenger or cargo. And because neither control is maxed out, you have room to go up or down on either one when the road changes.
Think of two and three as home base rather than a rule. Some riders will prefer a slightly higher gear on flat, smooth paths. Others will lean on assist level four on a warm day or after a long week. The point is to start in the middle and adjust from there, rather than defaulting to the easiest gear and the highest assist and leaving it there.
If you're not sure which trike suits the way you ride, our fitting consultation is built for exactly that question. It looks at your body and riding style and points you toward a model that fits.
","id":"141df5f0-8df3-4369-9c21-b3da0c4edcac"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Cadence: why the speed of your pedaling matters","body":"Cadence is how fast you turn the pedals, usually counted in revolutions per minute. Mika points out that on this trike, the faster you pedal, the more the system picks that up and adjusts for you. In other words, your pedaling input matters to how the assist responds, and spinning the cranks at a steady, comfortable pace tends to produce a smoother ride than pushing hard on big, slow strokes.
This is good news for your knees too. Grinding a heavy gear at low cadence puts a lot of force through your joints with every stroke. Spinning a lighter gear at a moderate cadence spreads the work out and is far kinder to your body, especially on longer rides. It's a big part of why the easier gears are so useful on an eTrike: they let you keep a relaxed, even rhythm while the motor supplies the extra push.
A simple test: if your pedals feel like they're fighting you, shift down one gear. If your legs are spinning so fast they feel frantic, shift up one. Somewhere in between is a cadence you could hold comfortably for a long time, and that's where the gear and assist combination tends to feel most effortless.
","id":"855644c4-e3d0-43b1-a979-25c3051e4eee"},{"layoutId":"full-width-image-with-out-bleed","variants":{},"image":{"assetId":"5lOuSCqbxWQqpsdHrh3AEf","options":{"backgroundSize":"cover"},"mobileAssetId":"","mobileOptions":{"backgroundSize":"cover"}},"id":"b053e1f1-53fc-4a9b-b9cf-ce2e092e7c98"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Shifting for real-world situations","body":"Home base is where you'll spend most of your time, but the real value of having seven gears and five assist levels is how easily you can adapt. Here's how that tends to play out on an ordinary ride.
Starting from a stop. Before you come to a stop, shift down into gear one or two. Starting a loaded trike from a standstill in a high gear is one of the most common mistakes new riders make, and it's hard work even with the motor helping. A low gear gets you rolling smoothly, and you can shift up once you're moving.
Climbing a hill. Shift down before the hill gets steep, not halfway up. Derailleurs shift most smoothly when the chain isn't under heavy load, so it helps to ease off your pedal pressure for a moment as you click the shifter. If the hill is long, bump up the assist a level or two. The low gear gives you leverage and the motor gives you power, and together they make hills far more approachable than they are on an unassisted bike.
Riding into a headwind. Wind can feel like a never-ending gentle hill. Drop a gear to keep your cadence comfortable and add one level of assist if needed.
Carrying a passenger or cargo. Extra weight means you'll want lower gears more often, especially when starting and climbing. The rickshaw in the video is built for this, with a passenger seat and hitch at the back. You can see other options in our rickshaw eTrikes, trikes for passengers and cargo eTrikes collections.
Cruising on the flat. This is where the higher end of your mid-range comes in. Gear three or four with assist two or three is often all you need for relaxed, steady riding on level ground.
","id":"706f6cb4-92e8-4691-bd8f-378ab991b31c"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Habits that keep the drivetrain happy and the battery lasting","body":"Because a seven-speed system is simple, it's also forgiving. A few habits will keep it running smoothly for a long time.
Keep pedaling while you shift. A derailleur needs the chain to be moving to change cogs. Shifting while stationary can leave the chain caught between gears, and the next pedal stroke can feel rough. If you forgot to downshift before stopping, you can lift the rear and turn the pedals by hand, or just start gently and shift once you're rolling.
Ease off during the shift. You don't need to stop pedaling, just lighten your pressure for a pedal stroke. This is especially important with a motor adding power, because the chain is under more total load than on an unassisted bike.
Use gears, not just assist, for hills. It's tempting to leave the trike in a mid gear and crank the assist to five when a hill arrives. That works, but it asks more of the motor and the battery. Dropping a gear or two first spreads the work and usually gives you a smoother climb with more range left at the end of the day.
Keep the chain clean and lubricated. A clean, lightly lubed chain shifts better and wears more slowly. If you're putting your trike together for the first time or want to check how things should look, our assembly instructions are a useful reference, and if you ever need spares, batteries and chargers are available in the parts section.
","id":"903fcce6-9347-4125-b599-cbb81f44bce9"},{"layoutId":"full-width-image-with-out-bleed","variants":{},"image":{"assetId":"5HtJszn1WugsLp7tg7Dbpr","options":{"backgroundSize":"cover"},"mobileAssetId":"","mobileOptions":{"backgroundSize":"cover"}},"id":"fdda7f2f-0456-47e2-9154-0d7df41cad04"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Trikes don't lean: getting used to the handling","body":"Once the gearing makes sense, the next thing most new riders notice is that a trike steers differently. Mika covers this in the video, and it's worth spending some time on because it's the biggest adjustment for anyone coming from a bicycle.
On a bicycle, you turn by leaning. Your body and the bike tilt into the corner together, and that lean is what keeps you balanced through the turn. It becomes so automatic that most riders don't think about it. On a trike, you don't need to do that. You turn the handlebars, and the trike simply turns. There's no balancing act, which is exactly why trikes are so popular with riders who want stability at low speeds and when stopped.
The catch is that your bicycle instincts may try to lean anyway, and it will feel strange at first. Because the trike stays upright, the forces of a turn push your body toward the outside of the corner instead of being balanced by a lean. On a gentle turn at a relaxed speed, you'll barely notice. On a sharper turn, you'll feel yourself being pushed outward.
The practical advice is simple. Slow down before a corner, not during it. Turn smoothly rather than snapping the handlebars. On tighter turns, it can help to shift your upper body slightly toward the inside of the turn to keep your weight centered. Taking a corner too fast on any three-wheeler can unsettle it, so give yourself time to learn how your trike behaves before you carry speed into turns.
Stopping matters as much as turning. Practice braking on a quiet street until it feels natural. If confident stopping power is a priority for you, our eTrikes with disc brakes collection is worth a look.
","id":"f635eef2-ea2f-4575-ac21-9a1c0361bcf3"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"Weight in the rear changes the balance","body":"Mika also points out that because much of this trike's weight sits at the back, the balance will feel different from a bicycle. That's especially true on a rickshaw-style model with a passenger seat behind the rider. The rear axle carries the battery and drivetrain on many trikes, plus whatever or whoever you're carrying.
In practice, that rear weight gives the trike a planted, stable feel on straight roads and when stopped. The front end can feel lighter than you expect, particularly when a passenger climbs aboard. Steering inputs feel a bit different with a load than without, and the trike will take a little longer to slow down when it's fully loaded.
None of this is a problem once you're used to it, and Mika's message is reassuring: you'll get used to it, and you're good to go. The best approach is to spend your first few rides unloaded, then add a light load, then try a passenger, so your feel for the trike builds gradually.
If you know you'll be regularly carrying a heavier rider, a passenger or a lot of gear, it's worth checking load ratings before you buy. Our high weight capacity eTrikes collection gathers models built with that in mind.
","id":"79d41063-5d29-4020-a5b3-35ccdf3c4995"},{"layoutId":"full-width-image-with-out-bleed","variants":{},"image":{"assetId":"urvHSQL9q3vPdJ8W8zamG","options":{"backgroundSize":"cover"},"mobileAssetId":"","mobileOptions":{"backgroundSize":"cover"}},"id":"b49fe74e-1101-470e-ac91-4617f02f45cc"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"A first-week plan for new eTrike riders","body":"Putting the gearing and handling advice together, here's a simple way to get comfortable in your first several rides.
Day one: find an empty parking lot or quiet street. With the trike in gear two and assist at one, ride slow loops. Practice starting, stopping, and gentle turns in both directions. Get a feel for how the trike turns without leaning.
Day two: work through the gears. Ride a straight stretch and shift up through the cassette one gear at a time, then back down, keeping a light pedal pressure as you shift. Notice how the assist smooths out each step. Then try the same with the assist levels, keeping the gear fixed.
Day three: settle into home base. Try gear two or three with assist two or three and ride a short, familiar loop. Pay attention to your cadence and adjust a gear up or down until it feels effortless.
Day four and beyond: add the real world. Try a gentle hill, downshifting before it starts. Practice coming to a stop already in a low gear. When you're comfortable, add some cargo, and later a passenger if your trike is set up for one.
If you're considering a trike for an older rider or someone who wants the easiest possible mounting, our eTrikes for seniors and easy-to-mount eTrikes collections are built around low step-through frames and a relaxed ride. And if you'd like extra help with tight maneuvering, such as backing out of a driveway, take a look at our eTrikes with reverse gear.
","id":"70fe6f45-590f-4c09-bda4-72b0095a8cc5"},{"layoutId":"paragraph-section","variants":{},"heading":"The bottom line on eTrike gear ratios","body":"Gearing on an electric trike is familiar if you've ever ridden a bike, but it asks far less of you. Seven gears is enough because the motor fills the spaces between them. Pedal assist and gears work as two dials on one ride, and most riders end up somewhere in the middle of both, around gear two or three and assist two or three, cruising with very little effort. Shift down before stops and hills, ease off the pedals as you shift, and let a steady cadence do the work.
Handling takes a few rides to learn. Trikes don't lean, so slow down before corners and let the handlebars do the turning. Weight in the rear changes the balance, but it also makes the trike stable and confident once you're used to it.
Mika's own takeaway after riding one was that he'd happily put this kind of system on his bicycle and get rid of a lot of the gears. If you want to feel that for yourself, our 30-day test ride gives you time to try a trike on your own roads. For more riding tips and product walkthroughs, browse the Bike Advice blog.
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